A Tribute to Joan Weinstein of Ultimo
Friday, November 20, 2009 at 12:07 PM 
Image of Joan Weinstein via Chicago Tribune
This blog began a little over a year ago, inspired by the future first lady's style and driven by a curiosity to learn and share more about what and who Mrs. O was wearing. Understanding the various fashion influences at play in Chicago was one of the first steps in discovering the full story. As names like Maria Pinto and Ikram Goldman emerged in our research last fall, so too did one that we weren't previously familiar with: Joan Weinstein, the former owner of Ultimo.
It has been reported that Ms. Weinstein passed away last weekend at the age of 74. We are sorry to have never met Ms. Weinstein - by all accounts a thoroughly glamourous woman with impeccable style and unerring taste. We would like to pay tribute to her influence and legacy here.
Ultimo opened in 1969 as a high-end men's store in Chicago, run by Jerry Weinstein, Joan Weinstein's husband. The boutique later expanded to include women's wear, with Joan Weinsten at the helm. When admirers speak of Ultimo in its prime, there is often a gasp, an almost pained appreciation for how impossibly chic both the boutique and its glamourous owner were.
Ms. Weinstein's prized pupil at Ultimo is a name that will be familiar to fans of Mrs. O's style: Ikram Goldman. When ownership of Ultimo was assumed by a private equity firm in the late 90s, Ms. Weinstein retired to Florida and Buenos Aires, while Ms. Goldman left to begin her own Chicago boutique, Ikram.
While Mrs. Weinstein may not have had a direct influence on Mrs. O's style, she has certainly played an instrumental role in furthering the careers of many designers now loved by the first lady. As we began work on "Mrs. O: The Face of Fashion Democracy" this became increasingly apparent. Karen Erickson told us that Ms. Weinstein bought the first collection of Erickson Beamon jewelry in 1983. The same applies to both Maria Pinto and Peter Soronen, among others. Mr. Soronen told us, "I still have that first order from Joan Weinstein - she has such a beautiful cursive writing."
We would love to hear thoughts and perspective from those who visited Ultimo and may have known Ms. Weinstein personally.
For further reading, please read "The Ikram Touch" written by Marcia Coburn, "Mrs. C", for Chicago magazine in 2006. The Chicago Tribune has published an article on Ms. Weinstein's passing, here.
Reader Comments (12)
I check out what Mrs. O. is wearing regularly, and I find everything in the best taste, while retaining a sense of occasion and fun, when the occasion calls for it. A feeling of sadness when it's a sad event Mrs. Obama is attending.
Kudos to Mrs. Obama and her fashion and art sense and her mentors who "trained her eye."
As a poet, artist and maker of wearable art myself, I know whereof I speak.
Kyi May Kaung
Mrs. T, always enjoy the fashion industry history and background you continue to provide.
Sharing another article re Ikram, some info previously covered around the inauguration
How Ikram Goldman became Michelle Obama's closest fashion adviser
My glamorous boss back in the 80s was a regular Ultimo shopper -- too rich for my blood! -- and knew Joan Weinstein well. Always spoke highly of her, and swore by her wonderful clothes. She would often tell me funny stories of the visiting celebs she would encounter in the store -- it really was THE place to shop for any woman who could afford it. It was located, as I believe Ikram is, on Oak Street -- Chicago's Rodeo Drive.
More on Ikram from the Chicago Tribune archive:
http://www.chicagotribune.com/features/chi-0225-ikram-and-michelle-obamfeb25,0,7742675.story?page=1
May she rest in perfect peace.
Spot on Kyi May Kaung.
May you rest in peace, Mrs. Weinstein. You led a very full and interesting life. You also were able to pass your particular "gift" on to others, which is wonderful
I used to visit Chicago regularly from Los Angeles and Ultimo was usually one of my first stops. The store was always so fashion forward and truly ahead of its time. I have some very timeless items form Ultimo that will never go out of style.
I was privileged to have met Joan several times over the years. She had the best taste and most inspiring fashion vision. I remember that she used to walk down Oak Street in Chicago wearing a black maribou-feathered coat.
Reminder the first Obama State Dinner is Tuesday. I am really excited, this is the first time I am going to watch a state dinner. Also, I live in Chicago and I heard about the Ultimo store.
Thanks Ms T, that was a lovely tribute to both Joan Weinstein and Ultimo. I knew OF it, but thanks for fleshing it out for me.
RIP Mrs W.
I worked at Ultimo in the 80's and was hired by Joan. She was certainly one of a kind and very gifted beyond belief and a major impact on the fashion world. I am said to hear she has passed away. I also worked along side Ikram and hung out with her outside of work! I am just finding out today that she has gone on to be a great success. Congratulations to Ikram.
I have just found this lovely tribute to Joan Weinstein, with whom (along with her husband, Jerry) I had a long professional history. A brief correction: Ultimo had a women's boutique from the very beginning, with Joan at the helm. I know this well from having designed, made and sold (along with a partner in our business, Dusty Bondage) women's accessories (leather goods and jewelry) and stenciled canvas and suede clothing).
I met Joan years before, when Jerry owned The Rugby Shop, then Paraphernalia, on Rush St. (then Michigan Ave.). She was widowed in her 30s and a brilliant merchandizer, discovering design talent world wide. And a shrewd business woman, operating the first non-company owned Giorgio Armani store in the U.S. (and also, I believe, the first non-company owned Jil Sander store – all on Oak Street, along with her Sonia Rykiel boutique). In 1989-90 I worked in PR and Marketing for Joan, promoting these stores (prior to the Jil Sander opening). The chicest women and men in world came through their doors to be lavished with exquisite personal shopping assistance and styling by the likes of Ikram Goldman, Jesse Garza, Patrick ____, John Jones, John Moran, Gigi, Lynn ... and many more.
Ultimo's trunk shows were legendary and helped launch careers: Isaac Mizrahi, Dolce and Gabanna are just two trunk shows that I remember vividly being involved with. To graduate from the "School of Joan Weinstein" as an employee, customer or designer was to have received a thorough education and earned your fashion stripes. There is no question that her influence lives as it is embodied by Mrs. O's panache, which I hope we will have an opportunity to enjoy for many years to come.